I Am Legend

“Legend” - A person whose fame or notoriety makes him a source of exaggerated or romanticised tales or exploits.

           ‘Legend’ is a word that is thrown around all too often in this day and age but the term surmises the reign of the Mapogo lions in the Sabi Sands to perfection.  For the last 6 years or so, this notorious band of brothers has ruled the area with an iron paw.  They are true warriors and have proved themselves time after time on the field of battle.  During their prime, 6 of these magnificent specimens patrolled their territory, dispatching all competitors and striking fear into the hearts of all that found themselves in their way.  Legend has it that the Mapogo have been responsible for killing in excess of 40 males, females and cubs as they stamped their authority on their domain. Whole prides have been wiped out in their relentless march for dominance and challengers have been eaten in an act of defiance: a fate almost unheard of in the species of Panthera leo.  The former warden of the Sabi Sands has been cited saying that he believes them accountable for over 100 lion fatalities although the true number will probably never be known.  Never before has the lion population known such a force and it is stories like this that have elevated their exploits to legendary status.

          These brothers may have a fearsome reputation but in the world of the lion, they should be seen as the epitomes of what a successful coalition should be.  They have been labeled as sadistic and remorseless to mention only a few adjectives assigned to them, but their exploits have ensured safe breeding grounds and stability in an area of unusually high competition.  Their success has changed the dynamic of the lion population in this area forever and it is no surprise to me that litters are becoming more and more skewed in favour of male offspring.  This is an inevitable outcome as nature attempts to balance the scales and provide a more level playing field.

          In recent years, new and equally formidable coalitions have been responsible for whittling down the Mapogo’s numbers as territorial lines were drawn in the sand and crossed and repeated battles were waged.  The Majingilanes in the north and the Southern Pride males in the south have both had their say in the shaping of the new regime and now all that remains of the mighty Mapogo are two aging specimens known as Makhulu and Pretty Boy.  Since being overthrown by the Southern Pride males, the last of these legends have been sighted regularly on Sabi Sabi as they search for new territory or maybe just sanctuary as they live out the remainder of their days.  At 14 and 11 years of age, they have surpassed the life expectancy of most male lions and carry the scars of years of conflict on the front line.

          During my 6 years of working the bush I have been privileged to view and come into close contact with many different lions from different areas of South Africa and Tanzania but I can honestly say that I have never witnessed such magnificent specimens as these two remaining legends.  Perhaps it is the stigma attached to them that accentuates their aura but they are the most intimidating lions that I have laid eyes upon.  It is not merely their freakish size and musculature that raises the adrenaline levels and starts the heart pounding but the look contained deep within their eyes.

          Peering into those yellow abysses one can truly feel the history and experience of many a hard fought battle in which the deciding factor was not just power, but a will to survive.  Their eyes bore through you like no other lions I have even seen and I refuse to believe anyone who claims to not feel a slight pang of uncertainty when they stare back at you.  The uneasiness of their presence is something that I have never felt before when watching the Kruger males.  For fear of downplaying the current kings of Sabi Sabi, the last of the Mapogo make them look like kittens.

          It is hard not to paint the Mapogos as terrifying, evil beasts due to the wrath they have rained down on the area but I hope that they are remembered as great rulers and protectors.  They have raised the bar as to the expectations of male coalitions in so far as protecting a territory and ensuring their genetic success.  They should be seen as role models, not killers.

          In conclusion then, legendary status is hard to achieve but ask anyone who has worked in the Sabi Sands for the last 7 years and they will tell you tales of the Mapogo.  Sadistic tyrants or protective fathers?  Both could be claimed true but the fact is that their arrival heralded a new age of the lion population in the Sabi Sands.  Love them or hate them, their exploits will never be forgotten.  These tales will no doubt be embellished and exaggerated but this is how great icons are born.  Over time, these stories will become myths and myths will become legends: a fitting legacy for the most famous lions of the modern era.   

Buffalo Soldiers

          The African, or Cape, buffalo is probably the least impactful member of the big 5.  It lacks the impressive dimensions of the elephant, the prehistoric look of the rhino and could never compete with the presence and beauty of the big cats.  Let’s be frank: it’s a big cow.  On steroids!  However, what it lacks in aesthetic beauty it makes up with sheer aggression and freakish strength.  Of Africa’s most famous quintet, the buffalo is the most feared amongst rangers and for good reason.  The most relevant of these factors is their unpredictable levels of aggression, coupled with an apparent lack of any emotion.  It is possible to read the moods and temperament of most of the animals in the bush but the buffalo is a master of concealing its intentions.  They are the bush’s ultimate poker players.  The eyes betray most animals, even humans, but a buffalo’s eyes are lifeless, like a dolls eyes.  They contain no information or intention and because of that they are always to be respected.

A muscle bound buffalo bull stares back down the lens

          Herds of buffalo in the area can reach over 1000 individuals and because of this they do not hold territories dues to their constant need to graze and dependency on water.  These great black waves roll in and out of the area as they search for available resources.  During the winter, these tides of testosterone sweep through Sabi Sabi’s reserve indulging in the permanent water that resides here and bring with them wondrous sightings and fascinating social interactions, not to mention a multitude of opportunities for hungry lions!

A herd of buffalo quench their thist at a nearby water hole

Nature's life force sees the buffalo through another day

Happy hour for all ages!

          The social structure of a buffalo herd is very interesting as the composition follows a fairly rigid structure and this is one of the reasons they are a very dangerous prospect for a lion in search of a substantial meal.  At the head of the herd, the dominant males, along with a smattering of the oldest and most experienced females forge a path through the bush.  They are generals that lead the rest of the battalions strung out behind them.  The central core of the herd normally contains the females and calves, whilst the older and younger males bring up the rear.  This is typical of a protective strategy whereby the more vulnerable members are flanked by a fearsome force.

A bold dominant bull leads the herd to water

The most dominant bulls are always found at the head

Buffalo need to drink twice a day so never venture far from water

          In the summer months, large herds are slightly less common as their need for water can be fulfilled by the multiple seasonal pans that emerge during the rains. Buffalos regularly coat themselves in thick layers of mud and a large male can carry an additional 25-30kgs after a satisfying wallow.  This serves multiple purposes in so much as it acts as protection from the sun and the abundant parasites intent on feasting on their blood.  Males also partake in an activity known as ‘mud caking’ whereby they actively cover their horns in mud to presumably increase their size and thereby look more intimidating.  It seems in the buffalo kingdom, size does matter; and these fearsome armourments constitute some of he most powerful weapons to be found in the bush.

A huge dagga boy enjoys his mud pack

Mud bath anyone?

          Once male buffalos reach their early teens, their priorities change.  No longer do they feel it necessary to follow the swathe of females across the veld, but prefer to remain in one place and wait for the herds to pass through.  It is these old men that pose us such a danger, on foot especially.  They are the epitome of grumpy old men and their level of tolerance is minimal at best.  What causes this heightened aggression is a mystery but some of this behavior can surely be attributed to an unpleasantly large number of ticks that abide on their skin.  These irritations can number in excess of 100,000 per animal!  I would also be somewhat cantankerous faced with such an infestation!!  These muscle-bound bachelors have been coined ‘dagga boys’ due to their penchant for rolling in the mud (‘dagga’ is a variation on the Shangaan word for mud) and then using the soil particles as a body scrub for removing these numerous unwanted guests.

High testosterone levels mean that boys will always be boys

          The buffalo then is a bit of an enigma.  Although the least striking of the big 5, its presence in the bush commands the most respect of them all.  It comes as a surprise to the majority of guests that this bovine battering ram is considered the most dangerous animal in the bush by rangers and hunters alike.  Under that no-nonsense simplistic build however lies an animal that strives to survive.  Even after the Rinderpest virus killed 99% of all buffalo in Africa in the late 1800’s their will to survive has seen them recover to great numbers and they roam the bush like well drilled armies as they continue to multiply.  I like to refer to them as ‘bank managers’.  When they stare at you with those soulless eyes, you are left with no clue of what thoughts lie beneath that freakishly strong exterior except this strange feeling that you must owe them money… 

The largest set of horns I have ever seen in my career



Fall From Grace

          Tree climbing is a skill that most boys learn from an early age.  The sense of excitement and euphoria of being able to scale the tallest of trees as a small boy is something that I will always remember but for me it was just a way to pass the time.  I refuse to believe that my awkward scrambling to these dizzy heights held much in the way of aesthetic beauty; but there is one animal that has made it into an art-form.  Leopard cubs learn to climb trees in their first few months and it is this mastery that has propelled them to one of the most successful predators in the world.  The ability to seek refuge in the canopy and to cache food out of the reach of stronger competitors is vitally important in terms of survival.  Not only that, it also graces us with one of the most beautiful sights in nature.

          This morning’s encounter served merely to reinforce this bold statement. As we pulled into the sighting, the young male leopard was sleeping peacefully on the rocks, enjoying the residual heat trapped within them from the previous day.  His stomach was swollen with the spoils of his recent successful hunt as he breathed quickly, forcing oxygen into his body to aid in digestion.  The remainder of his meal, a young kudu, swung gently back and forth in the marula tree above him, draped perfectly across a branch.  We marveled at the strength required to hoist such a weight up the side of a tree, and the skill to negotiate such a climb with the limbs of a kudu dangling from his jaws. 

The young leopard looks up to the branches where his kudu is safely cached

          Luckily for us, the leopard chose our arrival as a perfect time to awaken from his slumber and feed again.  The leopard gazed longingly up at the remainder of his prize and then, with the explosive power of a sprinter erupting from the blocks, propelled himself 6 meters up the vertical trunk to the lower branches.  On closer inspection of the trunk, his repeated scaling exploits were revealed as the bark bore multiple scars where his razor sharp claws had given him purchase. 

The 6 meter tree is easily scaled by the agile cat

Claw marks in the bark show his multiple ascents

Perched high above loitering hyenas, the prey is safe for now...

          Seemingly discontented with the orientation of his breakfast, the young male skillfully maneuvered the carcass to a more manageable position and settled down to feed.  The lack of meat left on the kudu though forced him to continually adjust both its, and his, position and his inexperience began to tell.  At approximately 3 years old, he has only been independent for perhaps 18 months and yet to fully master the art of carcass manipulation from above.  His repeated movements heralded the sound of a potential meal for others and within minutes, 2 hyenas emerged from the surrounding bush in the hopes of profiting from his mistakes.         

Inexperience caused the young male to constantly reposition himself an the food

Watching the hyenas gather as they hope for an error

          We watched with bated breath as his constant repositioning inched the remainder of the kudu’s weight further out of equilibrium.  We silently pleaded with him to re-centre the load to avoid losing the rest of his meal, whilst the circling hyenas’ salivated at the prospect of his error.  Usually a picture of arboreal poise and precision, the leopard suddenly lost his grip and in an uncharacteristic moment of clumsiness, lost his footing too.  After face-planting unceremoniously into the lowest branch, both leopard and the kudu plummeted to the ground in a tangle of legs and spots, scattering the baying hyenas!  In typical cat fashion however, the leopard was up and ready for action seconds after hitting the floor.  As the shocked hyenas gathered their senses and closed in on his prize, the leopard regained his dignity and advantage and shot back up the tree with the kudu tightly clamped within his jaws.  The frustrated hyenas were left hopping angrily at the bas of the tree, distraught that their patience had gone unrewarded.

Catastrophe....

A unceremonious face plant as the leopard loses his grip

Bark flies as the leopard searches for traction with his claws and kudu drops from his grip

          Relieved (and no doubt embarrassed by his ungraceful dismount), the young male made sure that he would not make the same mistake twice and took the kudu higher into the tree, ensuring that the gangly limbs were well secured this time.  Once satisfied, he flashed a final look of triumph at the disconsolate hyenas and a glance to the skies in case his faux pas had been noticed by any aerial marauders, before settling down to eat in relative peace.

Safe again after rescuing his meal from the jaws of the hyenas

The leopard repositions the kudu to avoid further mishap

A quick check to see if the vultires have also been alerted

          The events of the morning were a wonderful insight into the wealth of emotions that one might encounter on a safari.  We were struck with wonder and awe at the grace of the leopard’s original ascent, swiftly followed by the primeval delight in watching a predator devour his victim; the tension of waiting for the inevitable as the kudu slipped from his grasp, and then the comedic aspect of the feline acrobat’s literal fall from grace; finishing up with relief that he was able to redeem himself, although even this was accompanied by a slight pang of disappointment for the loitering hyenas. 

          During my tree climbing exploits as a child, it pains me to admit that I have chalked up many an ungraceful dismount that ultimately ended up with me on my backside.  But as in all walks of life, we learn from our mistakes.  We learn which trees have thorns, which branches can hold our weight, and at what age we should perhaps stop our youthful fearlessness!  The same is true of the leopard.  Although possibly the most beautiful animal to grace the canopy, even the great leopard is not immune to making mistakes.  Still young, these misjudgments are essential in honing his skills for the future that will one day see him as a dominant male in charge of his own territory, and a true master of the treetops.     

The proud male surveys his surroundings, content that the kudu is well secured this time

Another One Bites the Dust

          After a recent spate of cold weather, the bush gods dealt us a break with a relatively mild morning and we decided to take advantage of the slightly warmer temperatures by leaving early.  My guests we on their final game drive of their 2 night stay and we were yet to have a good quality lion sighting, so expectations were high and the pressure was on.  This morning however, luck was on our side.  Not 10 minutes out of the lodge, my tracker, Zulu, spotted shadows moving in the dark morning light and we went in to investigate.  To everyone’s delight, the cloudy night had given the lions the advantage of complete darkness and as we approached the shadows, the scene of yet another successful buffalo hunt was revealed. 

One of the Kruger males shakes his mane.  The slow shutter speed made for a nice effect

The Kruger males' appetite is unsatiable!

          The Southern Pride are buffalo experts.  During my 2 year tenure at Sabi Sabi, I have witnessed them feeding on buffalo carcasses more than any other animal, and that is no mean feat.  The buffalo is the most fearsome of the big 5 for many reasons but perhaps the most prevalent, in this instance, is their huge strength and massive adrenaline yield.  They exhibit adrenaline levels approximately 300% that of a similar sized animal and are therefore notoriously difficult to bring down.  Our pride however, have developed hunting strategies to counteract these qualities and are regular slayers of this feared beast.  Every pride will learn from their elders specific skills for hunting certain prey and the Southern Pride have made buffalo hunting their forte.

2 lionesses share the spoils of another successful hunt

The entire pride tuck into the buffalo whilst the young cubs play in the foreground

          By the time we arrived on the scene, the lions had engulfed most of the meat and their swollen stomachs betrayed their greed.  This did not stop them from trying to cram more protein rich meat into their bulk and the pride we still clustered around the shrinking prize as their razor sharp carnassials sliced through the soft flesh.  Every now and again the males decided to reinforce their dominance of the situation by snarling and growling at the pride as they fought over the remaining meat.  The sound that comes from a male lion during exchanges like this strikes fear and respect into the heart of all watching and leaves no doubt of the immense power they possess. 

After chasing off the females, this male decided that sleeping on the food was the best way to keep it safe!

          As the older members of the pride squabbled over the carcass, the 2 young cubs amused themselves by practicing their hunting techniques on each other.  These skills will be critical in shaping them into the fearsome hunting machines that will grace the bush, and they delighted us by leaping on each other and frolicking in the grass only meters from our land rover. 

A elder sibling playfully bats one of the 3 month old cubs

Full of energy, the 2 youngsters practised their take downs

          In great news for the pride, and us, after we departed the sighting I heard reports that another female had arrived on the scene accompanied by 2 more young cubs!  We had feared the worst after a marauding buffalo herd had found their den site a few weeks ago but I am delighted to report that we have 2 healthy new additions to the Southern pride and the proud mother choose today to introduce them to their extended family.  Although I was unable to get any pictures of the new arrivals, I hope to do so in due course and will keep you all informed of their progress.

One of the cubs takes a moment to take in his surroundings

The rounded belly of the female is a good sign for the cubs as they suckle whilse she sleeps

          The rest of the morning was filled with the usual wonder of the bush as we bumped into a crash of 5 male rhino as they cut a swathe through the dying grass in their endless search for nutritious fulfillment.  For me, the most exciting part of the remainder of the drive was witnessing a juvenile martial eagle harassing a pair of petrified steenboks.  Although not fully mature, the strength contained in the talons of a martial is more than enough to subdue our smallest antelope.  The eagle made a couple of aerial forays whilst attempting to secure a substantial breakfast but its inexperience was no match for the lightning fast pint sized antelopes as they darted to safety. 

A juvenile martial eagle surveys his hunting ground from a dead tree

          We returned to the lodge in high spirits after another amazing morning in the bush and attacked our breakfast with similar relish to that of the lions.  Excited chatter filled the breakfast table over the demise of another buffalo at the hands of the Southern pride and what the future holds for the next generation.  I watched from the sidelines, content that my guests were preparing to depart Sabi Sabi on a high and that their experiences over the last few days would stay with them forever.  This vicarious joy is one of the most rewarding parts of being a guide and I now look forward to seeing what adventures the bush has to offer to my new arrivals.           

Rise of the Rhinos

One of the most frequent questions I am asked during a starlit dinner at the lodge is ‘what made you get into guiding?’  A genuine passion for wildlife is the obvious answer and very true, but there are many vocations in which one can be involved to simply scratch that itch.  What I truly love about my job and what helps me get up at 4.30am every morning is that no two days are ever the same.  The unpredictability of the bush is its biggest gift.  Every morning is a blank canvas and the desire to get out there and see what today’s sunrise has brought with it is more than enough motivation to leave the comfort of a warm bed!

A rhino mother and calf graze in the morning sunrise

After a successful few days of safari, I decided to conduct today’s afternoon game drive in an area of the reserve known more for its topographical beauty than its animal density.  Unknown to us at the time however, my guests and I were in for a treat.  As we rounded a bend in the road we inadvertently found ourselves in the middle of a warzone.  Male rhinos are territorial animals and the dominant male will have to defend his interests regularly to ensure mating rights and a safe environment for his offspring to grow.  The ensuing battle was fascinating and we were gifted front row seats to something that felt like a scene out of Gladiator.

The dominant male fends off another attack from his younger challenger

The setting of the skirmish was picture perfect.  The rhinos were engaged in conflict within a natural amphitheatre of a high banked waterhole.  Iconic fever trees lined the arena and we settled in to watch only about 15 meters away from the action with the rhinos so wrapped up in their engagement they seemed oblivious to our presence.  For the next 30 minutes we watched with jaws agape as a younger male launched raid after raid against the dominant bull.  Water is nature’s life blood and it seemed no coincidence that the battle was being fought on wet turf.  With the dry season coming, the most sought after territories will contain water. 

The challenger mounts another offensive

The dominant male stood firm in the water repelling repeated attacks from his smaller foe.  The rhinos’ battle cries were audible from afar as deep booming growls accompanied the clashing of horns as they jousted with each other probing for the killer blow.  Each time the larger male got the better of his adversary, the challenger retired a few meters, scent marked in a sign of defiance and rallied to attack again.  Mud and water erupted from beneath their huge feet as 4 tons of prehistoric aggression clashed in the shallows making for a wonderful spectacle.  We watched with mouths agape as this epic encounter continued and finally after about 40 minutes the loser accepted his fate and melted off into thick bush.  After a successful defense of his territory, the winner basked in his own glory by submerging his massive bulk in the muddied water.  I almost felt like standing and applauding his victory in true coliseum style but with his adrenaline levels still spiking, we chose to leave him to celebrate in peace before he considered us a threat to his dominance!

The victorious male celebrates his victory by rolling in his hard fought waterhole

The mud covered male stands proud in his defended territory

As the sun began its inevitable descent behind the distant little Drakensburg Mountains we were presented with a final treat.  They say that the best things come in small packages and on this occasion, this oft over used phrase could be no more poignant.  Greeting us around the corner was a rhino cow and her newborn calf.  Everyone is aware of the plight that faces the rhino at present and to witness the next generation is the epitome of hope for the species.  In 6 years of guiding I had never seen such a young rhino.  He could not have been more than 3 days old yet his level of boldness was endearing.  The mother’s high levels of habituation gave him enough confidence to cautiously investigate this intruder into his new life and we watched in silence, afraid to move or make a sound in case we spooked him and destroyed such a special moment.

The next generation looks one under the watchful gaze of is mother

The newborn rhino explores his surroundings

The contrast in size is almost unfathomable.  Weighing in at about 90kgs, it seems impossible to comprehend that he will tip the scales at over 2 tons in the future.  There was no evidence of even a horn on his nose as he unsteadily evaluated us from the safety of his mother’s side.  High pitched squeaks accompanied his investigations.  Whether they were an attempt to communicate with this strange animal in his midst or cries of reassurance to his mother we will never know but our hearts melted as one in the face of such delicate beauty.  There was not much I needed to say to my guests as the picture truly spoke for itself and as the female moved away from the road with her legacy in hot pursuit, we decided to leave them in peace and moved on in silence as we all soaked up a wonderful sighting.

A tiny bump is all that hints at the magnificant horn that will hopefully follow

It is days like this that epitomize the joy of being a guide in Africa.  I have seen rhino many times but every sighting is different.  Interactions between species members all culminate in different behaviours and outcomes.  Sightings of the younger generation carry with them joy but hint at the forthcoming battle the individuals and species must face as they struggle to survive.  Nonchalance is a guide’s biggest enemy and especially when considering a critically endangered species such as the rhino.  The day I become complacent about seeing one these prehistoric throw backs is the day I move on.  If that day ever comes, I would consider myself not worthy to be in such an enviable position and it would be selfish of me to deny that opportunity to other more passionate guides in waiting.  Every sighting is a gift and should be treated as one.          

A mother and calf beautifully reflected in the water

A territorial male embarks on another patrol

A curious calf leaves the protection of his mother to investigate our landrover